NELLYSFORD—One of humanity’s oldest libations is making a comeback in Virginia.

With roots dating to at least 7,000 B.C. in China, mead fell out of favor when beer and wine took center stage. However, the American Mead Association reports there are around 450 commercial meaderies in the U.S., with more opening as the fermented honey drink experiences a revival.

Nestled in Nelson County, Hill Top Winery & Meadery is among local crafters bringing ancient traditions back to life. What began as a U-pick berry farm in 1993 has grown into a popular spot offering over 20 meads.

“My dad made the first batch, and I saw all the possibilities,” reflected Kimberly Allen-Pugh, who owns the business with her husband, Gregory. “Making mead combines my love of history and the ability to be creative.”

She describes mead as “history in a bottle,” and visitors to Hill Top’s medieval-themed tasting room can sample varieties ranging from dry to sweet, including a traditional Viking-style mead and Gladius, a pyment made by fermenting honey and grape juice. The meadery sources honey from local and international apiaries while incorporating local flavors from foraged pawpaws, wild persimmons and mulberries.

Bottling in small batches year-round, Hill Top sells both online and in the tasting room—drawing customers from across the globe.

“When we first started, most people did not know what mead was or might say, ‘Oh I had that in Ireland,’” Allen-Pugh said. “Now more people are familiar, there are more meaderies in existence, and we have a product that’s sought out.”

Situated outside of Charlottesville, Thistlerock Mead Co. has built a sustainable ecosystem around the drink—from flower to bottle. Founded in 2022 by John Kluge Jr. and Doug Suchan, the operation’s 70 beehives and millions of bees produce much of its honey.

“At least 51% of all the honey we use is sourced from our hives,” explained Allison Wickham, Thistlerock’s director of apiary operations.

Blending their honey with sustainably sourced varieties from Colombia, Ethiopia and other regions, “the different flavors of honey carry through the mead,” Wickham said. “Just like chardonnay and merlot grapes make dramatically different wines, similarly, buckwheat honey and acacia honey make meads with different colors and flavors.”

Chief mead maker Suchan explained three to four pounds of honey produce a gallon of mead, which is fermented in steel tanks and aged in oak barrels. Thistlerock’s lineup includes a semi-dry variety with notes of pear and honeycomb and a semisweet mead infused with Ethiopian coffee beans and vanilla.

As its popularity grows, Thistlerock works to elevate mead’s presence. Kluge is collaborating with local meaderies to begin a state mead association, the Virginia Mead Guild, which received a grant to develop a Virginia Mead Tasting Trail.

“We want people to be able to go into their local shop or favorite restaurant and order mead,” Kluge said.

And with over 25 commercial meaderies in the state, “I think Virginia is well positioned to do that.”

Read more in Virginia Farm Bureau’s Cultivate magazine.

Media: Contact Allen-Pugh at 434-996-9698 or Kluge at 434-340-1933.