HANOVER—Some Virginia farmers are revisiting their roots and growing produce specific to their native countries. From Cameroonian njama njama to Indian sour tomatoes and South Asian bitter melon, these farmers are crafting niche markets by growing tastes of home.

“Food is the great unifier,” said Patience Fielding of Esther Manor Farm in Hanover County. “Everybody eats, and we can connect with each other through food.”

After reflecting on the food supply shortages during the pandemic, and the lack of indigenous African produce in stores, Fielding purchased 10 acres of land in the Virginia countryside and got started.

Sourcing seeds “from the motherland,” Fielding grows njama njama, a nutrient-rich vegetable that’s sauteed with tomatoes and onion. She also grows bitter leaf, a plant known for its antioxidants that is used in soups and herbal medicine. And waterleaf, another leafy green typically enjoyed in salads and eru—a dish common in Cameroon and Nigeria.

“Cameroon has a rich food culture that I am hoping to introduce to mainstream America,” she said. “I grow food to serve my community and also to build a resilient, cross-cultural community.”

Vishali and Sree Mogulla left their farming community in India only to rediscover their roots 8,000 miles away in Loudoun County.

“We did not have access to the vegetables we were used to eating,” Vishali recalled. “Indian grocery stories started popping up around 2010. There were so many families like ours excited to see these vegetables in stores.”

The Mogullas established Sprouting Roots Farm on 25 acres at Fabbioli Cellars, representing new beginnings while celebrating their origins.

Among rows of Indian squash, sorghum, and an array of melon, gourd and eggplant varieties, are the farm’s bitter gourds—vining vegetables with fruit and leaves juiced for medicinal properties.

Their Indian tomato varieties are staggered to extend the season and meet high demand.

“Indians want sour tomatoes and use them in every dish they make,” Vishali said. “Just like onion.”

Swathi Gaddam of Happy Vibes Farm in Fauquier County also is growing Indian vegetables. Using the seeds she saved from home, she began a new journey—opening her world to the community.

“I realized that my audience is beyond South Asian now. Everybody is appreciating the quality of food,” she marveled.

Gaddam was able to experiment with “100 different varieties” last year like green sorrel and Malabar spinach—filling a void at the local farmer’s market.

“People want to try something new,” she remarked. “We have regulars of all ages that want Asian greens like sorrel or roselle every week. They tried it, they loved it, and they keep coming back.”

She delights in sharing her culture with marketgoers and even provides recipe cards. She was especially ecstatic to see a high demand for bitter melon—a staple food in her household.

Read the full story in summer Cultivate magazine.

Media: Contact Fielding at 804-928-7270; Mogulla at 571-226-0824; or Gaddam.