Soft, cozy and natural, wool is making a comeback as a preferred fiber in the fashion world thanks to its sustainable properties. That fact isn’t lost on Augusta County farmer Francis Chester. He raises Columbia, Targhee and Rambouillet sheep for wool at Chester-Cestari Farms, on land located directly behind his store in Augusta Springs.

“There isn’t anything that equals wool, and people are recognizing that more and more over time,” Chester said. “Sustainability is really big in today’s market, and wool is exactly that. It’s a natural protein, which means it will eventually break down in nature.

“The oil companies can try as desperately as they want to replicate wool with synthetic materials, but they’ll never be able to do it. God’s got the patent on wool, and he’s not sharing it with anyone.”

Chester has raised sheep for 74 years and has an intimate understanding of consumer demands when it comes to wool. Aside from outsourcing the scouring and washing that clean raw wool and remove lanolin content, Chester picks, cards and spins his own wool yarn at his mill in Churchville.

The end result is a carefully curated selection of textures that include pure wool and wool blends containing linen, silk and Virginia-grown cotton.

“We see people who want to get wool, but we also have blends which work out well for our customers who want something else,” Chester said. “I’m using natural fibers to provide that experience for them, but I’m trying to keep the wool aspect included. I’m really a multi-fiber operation with an emphasis on wool.”

Alpaca – the other wool

Doug Kittrell, who raises alpacas at Double 8 Alpaca Ranch in Loudoun County, suggested wool is experiencing a resurgence not only because of its sustainability, but also for its durability and versatility.

In an era of fast fashion, synthetic fibers have replaced natural fibers, which causes some garments to fall apart after just a few wears. Some modern clothing incorporates a percentage of wool content. But Kittrell said once synthetic fibers are introduced, customers miss out on the authentic wool experience.

“You’ve got to feel wool to know what it really is and to understand that it’s not the same stuff you’d feel at stores,” he explained. “Wool is an amazing product, and natural fibers are incredible. They have the ability to keep you warm when it’s cold out, and they help you stay cool in warmer temperatures. It’s like magic.”

Kittrell began raising alpacas for fiber in 2010, and he and his wife, Bonnie, raise about 50. They use the alpaca fleece to produce yarn and socks that are sold in their farm store, and they also send some to co-ops to contribute to other alpaca farmers’ endeavors. The alpaca fleece is processed similarly to sheep wool, though it doesn’t contain lanolin, eliminating the need for it to be scoured. The absence of lanolin makes alpaca fiber hypoallergenic, and it is lighter and warmer than sheep wool, although typically more expensive.

Alpaca wool occupies a niche market, and Kittrell said customers appreciate the high quality of a handmade, natural product.

“When I see people’s faces, they’re looking at the animals and it makes them feel more connected to the world they live in or a world they wished they lived in,” he said. “To have something made from those animals, it just makes people feel good—they’ve got a product that feels good and feels good emotionally.”